Inside The Roastery: Roastmaster Dave on Ethiopian Coffee
Ethiopia. The source of some of the world’s most exceptional and sought-after beans. Here, coffee trees grow wild, and the culture of coffee runs as deep as its history. To explore the magic of Ethiopian coffee, we sat down with Roastmaster Dave to uncover the secrets behind these extraordinary beans. Join us as we journey around the globe to where it all began.
Ethiopia's Legacy: The Birthplace of Coffee
"Buna dabo naw"
The Legend of Kaldi and His Dancing Goats
While there are many stories regarding the discovery of coffee, the most pervasive is that of the goat herder, Kaldi. According to legend, Kaldi took notice to his goats' energetic antics after eating coffee cherries from the wild coffee trees of Ethiopia.
After witnessing their vigor, Kaldi took the cherries to a local monastery to share his discovery. The monks claimed that the fruit was the Devil's work, and hurled them into the fire and the aroma of roasting coffee beans soon filled the monastery.
Realizing their mistake, the monks scooped them from the fire and placed them in a jug of water for preservation. Later, the monks drank the brew and experienced the energetic properties for themselves. The rest, as they say, is history.
From The Wild Coffee Forests of Ethiopia To Worldwide Cultivation
The Legend of Kaldi is almost certainly just a fun story. In truth, coffee is speculated to have been discovered by nomadic tribes in Ethiopia around 850 AD or earlier. Tribes in this region most likely began by eating the coffee cherries, rather then drinking a brew as we are accustomed to. By 1000 AD, evidence suggests that Ethiopians had begun concocting a wine by fermenting dried coffee beans in water, but it was on the Arabian Peninsula where a hot coffee brew first emerged.
The cultivation and trade of coffee began sometime in the 15th century, and was centered in the Yemen province of Arabia. Ethiopian beans were met with high demand and highly guarded. In fact, no fertile plants were allowed to leave the country of Yemen during this time. Despite these restrictions, coffee plants were smuggled out of Yemen, and soon enough, the legendary cherries that originated in the wild coffee forests of Ethiopia spread to neighboring nations, and eventually, the world.
What Makes Ethiopian Coffees Unique?
"There are thousands of varieties of coffee in Ethiopia, and you're going to get a very different cup from a Harrar to a Yirga Cheffe to a Sidama, Limu, Jimma, etc"
- Roastmaster Dave
Harrar. Yirgacheffe. Sidama. Seasoned coffee drinkers may recognize some of these names as some of their favorite coffees, but what do they actually mean? These names are referencing the region these coffee varietals were grown. An Ethiopian Yirgacheffe coffee for example, is a coffee grown in the Yirgacheffe (or Yirga Cheffe) district of Ethiopia.
Since coffee's aroma and flavor is greatly attributed to factors like climate, altitude, and other growing conditions, coffees from each region tend to be very different. So while Ethiopian coffees are generally celebrated for their bright, fruity and floral notes, each region will have their own distinct flavor profiles.
Sidama - Crisp acidity. Floral and citrus notes. Rich, full body.
Yirgacheffe - Bright acidity. Distinct floral tones. Complex fruit flavors.
Harrar: Deep fruity notes. Wine-like tones. Heavy, syrupy body.
Guji: Bright acidity. Citrus notes. Smooth, medium body.
Limu - Low acidity. Subtle floral and fruity notes. Balanced body, with hints of spice.
Jimma - Low acidity. Distinct spicy flavor, complemented by a pleasant sweetness.
Into The Fire: Roasting Ethiopian Coffees
With so many varietals coming out of Ethiopia, each with their own unique flavor profiles, we wanted to make sure we offered insight from a true expert. Luckily, we have Roastmaster Dave to explain Ethiopian coffee flavor profiles and what factors he considers when roasting.
Q: Ethiopian coffees are considered some of the best in the world. What unique qualities are you trying to highlight when you roast them?
Roastmaster Dave: "Ethiopian coffees tend to have bright, fruity, and floral notes that come from the unique growing conditions. I roast to let those complex and nuanced qualities shine in the cup."
Q: What roasting techniques do you find bring out the best in the fruity and floral notes common in these coffees?
Roastmaster Dave: "A slow and gentle application of heat and keeping the roast level light is my approach."
Q: Do you adjust the roast profile depending on the processing method ( washed, natural, ect). How does it affect the final cup?
Roastmaster Dave: "Absolutely! Processing methods make a huge difference in roasting. Naturals tend to take more energy to roast so, again, gentle application of heat and a slightly longer roast time than washed. Naturals also tend to be inconsistent in quality and notes from batch to batch…and even within the same batch. In the cup, Naturals can have fermented flavors, sticky sweetness, and a syrupy mouthfeel. Washed coffees lean toward bright, clean, and silky in the cup."
A Few Extra Sips With The Roastmaster
It is busy being the sole Roastmaster for a national coffee brand, so when Dave has time to chat, we take advantage of every opportunity to share in his expertise. After all, when you have access to such a wealth of coffee knowledge, it’s only right to dig a little deeper. Here’s more from Dave, offering additional tidbits and wisdom.
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